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San Miniato, The hill
civilisation |
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An abundance of monuments
testifying to twelve centuries of history. |
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San Miniato embodies typical Tuscan traits: a small town with
a very definite identity, twelve centuries of history, a
perfectly preserved medieval aspect and serenely beautiful
landscapes. The town clings to the slopes of a hill dominating
the valleys of the Elsa and Arno rivers.
At the top stands the
thirteenth-century Tower, the only trace of the stronghold
built in 1240 by order of Frederick II, where Pier delle
Vigne, the clerk of the Swabian court who features in a famous
Canto of Dante’s Inferno, committed suicide.
Below the Tower lies the Prato del Duomo, looking out over the
Arno plain like a terrace with a panoramic view, dominated by
the marble and fired brick profile of the thirteenth-century
cathedral and its belfry known as “Matilda’s Tower” after the
countess of Canossa.
The same piazza also contains the Palazzo
dei Vicari del Popolo, the Bishop’s Palace and the Diocesan
Museum, which holds a valuable collection of religious art
including paintings by Filippo Lippi and Neri di Bicci and a
terracotta Christ by Andrea del Verrocchio. Behind the
Cathedral, and more precisely from the Sanctuary of the
Crucifix, a stairway leads directly to the Town Hall and the
fourteenth-century Oratory of the Virgin of Loreto.
A few steps further on other fascinating churches await us,
such as the Oratorio della Misericordia, adorned with a
Madonna of Giotto’s school, and San Francesco, a majestic
Romanesque building in fired brick built in the 13th century
on the foundations of a little temple dedicated to San
Miniato, the original nucleus of the town.
From the Prato del Duomo the way leads down to Piazza della
Repubblica and the eighteenth-century Palazzo del Seminario,
then to Piazza del Popolo and the Gothic church of San
Domenico, decorated with beautiful frescoes of the Tuscan
school. In addition to paintings by the Master of San Miniato
and Giusto d’Andrea, there is also a great Renaissance
sculpture, the Tomb of Giovanni Chellini, designed by
Donatello and carried out by Bernardo Rossellino - major
artistic personalities were present in this area long disputed
between Pisa and Florence, which ended up by taking for itself
the best of both.
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